Making a “V” front Colonial American Girl doll dress

I was busy sewing and lost track of time… so no comments were answered… sorry…

I do have some progress to report though…

The cameo has been removed… You ALL were right! Last night at midnight, I thought it was great because the color matched the print so well, but this morning, I didn’t like it either… so that makes it unanimous.

I forgot to show you the pattern I am using for Felicity’s dress. It’s Eve’s Colonial pattern from Keeper’s Dolly Duds…

I found a little bit of vintage tatted lace in my laces and decided to use it on the edge of the sleeves…

Since I was going to do a “V” front skirt instead of one that just goes evenly around the waist, I thought I might as well show you how “I” do it… not that it’s the only way, but it’s just the way I do it…

Eve’s pattern shows it like this…

The skirt section has a bit of dip in the front so it can fit into the point on the bodice…

I like to sew 3 rows of basting threads along the top edge of the skirt section… stopping at the middle both ways… then gather it up…

Since you are making it fit the opposite way onto the bodice, you’ll have to put a clip just short of the 1/4″ you’ll be stitching at the middle so it will fold back at the point..

Here’s a better picture of what I mean…put a pin in the place where you want to pivot when you are sewing… it should be the exact middle of the tip on the bodice…

Pull the clipped spot up so the edges of the skirt line up with the edges of the bodice and pin in place… I “personally” like to have about 1/4″ to 1/2″ on either side of the pin without gathers so you have a flat area right at the point… and so it’s not so bulky…

The main thing you have to be concerned with when sewing the skirt onto the bodice is watching to make sure your gathers are going straight down all the way around the waist…it’s easy to catch a fold and have it slightly crooked… as I’m stitching my skirt on, I try and tug at the gathers with my left hand just a bit to make sure they are perpendicular to the waist…

Sew to the point with the pin still in place… SLOWLY and then pivot and do the other side… It should look like this on the back…

… and similar to this on the front… Yes, there will be LOTS of threads…

Just gently pull them out making sure not to pull so hard you cause any holes to appear… neaten it up on both sides…

In Eve’s pattern she shows the lining sewn down separately and no exposed seam is shown… it’s all encased… but I like to serge the edges and tuck them up and tack them at the various seams… side seams, back dart and front point… I like the way it lays this way, but that’s just me… PLUS it’s a whole lot quicker and easier than getting the lining all straightened out…

When I press the seam that I’ve just made… I lay the edge of the bodice on the edge of my ironing board and let the gathers hang off the edge… that way I can press it with the tip of my iron and not flatten my gathers…

Here it is pressed and looking pretty nice…

Now that I have the basic part of the dress constructed, I need to think about the length. I only had 2 fat quarters of this fabric so I only have a few scraps left… I didn’t have enough to make her dress any longer, so I need to decide do I want it as long as I can make it which is about an 1 1/2″ off the floor… or hemmed up a bit and a pair of pantalettes showing…

I looked in my silk ribbon and have a few colors that might work… I first thought the minty green would work, but when I turned off my lights, it looked too blue…

Any colors grab you?

Well, that’s how I do a “V” front dress…

See you Monday! Have a great weekend!
Blessings, Jeanne

31 thoughts on “Making a “V” front Colonial American Girl doll dress”

  1. What a cool V-shaped dress tutorial. Beautiful fabric and lace. I think my Felicity will also be wearing a new gown. You inspire – thank you.

    1. Thank you Alina,
      I’m glad you enjoyed this tutorial… I hope you give it a try for your Felicity…
      Blessings, Jeanne

  2. I had a problem posting yesterday, don’t know if it was me, my computer or somehtngwith the blog, but whatever I wrote, did not show up!

    I did remember saying that I do love the material, with its’muted tones, and the beautiful flowers, but I too, was not a fan of the cameo! It looks like we all thought that!

    You did a wonderful job of showing how you do a pointed bodice and attaching it to the skirt. Even I could follow along!

    The lace that edges the sleeves is lovely! I love old lace, and it makes a dress look more expensive when it is used. I have various pieces of lace from my mother-in-lw, but most are from human sized clothes, and scarves, things like that, that are too large for doll clothes.

    So sorry to hear that one of your favorite shops is closing! That seems to happen to me on a regular basis, ans I guess it’s because of my age. Nothing lasts forever! Like Barbara, I too, found a lot of nice clothes at Stein Mart and was sad to see it go.

    I’m not sure what the ribbons are for, her hair, the dress, a necklace? I do like the ones on the right, the cream and reddish ones. I would think pale green would also work, but as you say, it looked more blue.

    1. Just thought of and am wondering, do you do three rows of gathers when sewing for the smaller dolls, r is it just the AG dolls?

    2. HI Linda,
      I sure how it’s just a fluke that your computer and a few others wouldn’t let you comment. Remember what happened before? I sure don’t want that to happen again… :o(

      Well, that cameo is a thing of the past… I’ll use it again sometime and hopefully will get a better reaction… :o)

      I usually sew three rows for most of my dolls… even little Navi… it just makes for better gathers…
      Thanks Linda,
      Blessings, Jeanne
      I planned to weave one of the ribbons through the lace at her neckline and have done about 3 different colors. I does look nice but I might have to wait on a vote for which color is the most popular…

      Oh good, I’m glad you understood how I did my V and think you could do one… that’s always my hope, that I explain it for a beginner as well and some seasoned sewers… Because I know how to do it, I’m worried that I’ll leave out a vital step… hopefully I didn’t.

  3. Charlotte Trayer

    Thanks for the tutorial, Jeanne! I think I would probably do that style of skirt the way you do, although I would definitely staystitch an inch or so either side of the V before I cut into it. Just wouldn’t want to chance the fabric weakening there, as it has some stress on it.

    I love how it is coming along. The lace on the sleeves is perfect. As to the skirt length, yes, the narrow hem, and then either pantelettes (which were Not worn in Felicity’s day, by the way, but most people seem to want underwear of some kind for her anyway!) or a petticoat that might peek out from underneath her dress.

    As to the ribbons, at first I was thinking the lighter of the “reds”, and then I realized it was too pink, so I think the darkest color (far left as we look at the picture), or possibly the one on the far right, which seems to match the lace.

    By the way, I tried your way of doing three rows of gathers on a doll dress skirt the other day. Even though I haven’t had a chance to sew that seam yet, just seeing it pinned to the bodice, it just looks SO much better than it would have with my usual two rows of gathers. I do believe you have a “convert” here!! LOL

    1. I will be a convert to the three rows of gathering also. I’m about to do a dress for Stella that has four ruffles. It seems to me it would help with that nasty thing that occurs every now and then when you view your waist seam and see where some of the gathers weren’t flat and they get caught up in the seam the wrong way and you have to pull that section out and redo. I try hard not to have this happen but it does and I think the three rows would help with this because the third row is outside the seam and more visible.

      1. Thanks Barbara,
        Glad to be of help with your sewing… it’s a simple fix but works very well…. you’ll have to let me know when you get the dress made using this technique if you like it!
        Blessings, Jeanne

    2. HI Charlotte,
      I guess I could have stay stitched along the V area, but I treat it very gently and always go back and stitch just a hair past the row of stitching I just did about 2″ or so on either side of the V to make it more sturdy…

      I think I’ll probably just make a pretty petticoat, but not a boned one… something full, but not stiff, for a little girl…

      Oh goody, a “two row” convert! Sounds silly, but it makes a big difference. … it just holds your gathers more like a smocking pleater does…
      Thanks Charlotte,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  4. Seeing the pattern is so helpful. Your interpretation is lovely. The tutorial on the pointed bodice was also interesting. The lace points are perfectly lined up with the point as well. Good job! I’m happy that you found some vintage lace for the sleeves that goes so well too. It is all coming together. As to the ribbon choices, I would like to see each by themselves because the decision is difficult. At first glance, I immediately chose the darker rust on the left as it goes so well with Felicity’s hair and the flower colors. After eliminating the bluish as it doesn’t go, I took a look at the other orangish rust on the right and it may work also. Hard to tell with the lighting. And then there is the beige/cream which would also be pretty depending on what exactly you are doing with the ribbon. Do you want the ribbon to stand out or the pretty fabric? Humm? As to the dress length, I personally would just do a small hem. An off white petticoat similar to the lace color would be pretty just peeking out below. 🙂
    Thanks for showing how nice the dress is coming along. Hope you have time to work on it and do some painting this weekend. 🙂

    1. Hi Joy,
      I’ve been weaving the ribbons through the lace and said up above to someone, I may have to wait and show you the possibilities as it’s kind of hard to decide…. it’s just a subtle something but it’s nice…
      I have had to stop my painting because Rebecca and her dad were building a headboard for her bed… She just got it finished 2 days ago and today it was screwed to the bed frame… Now I have my painting area back… yay… I’ll have to show the bed… it’s very nice!
      Thanks Joy,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  5. The fabric, lace and design really say “Felicity.” Great angle on the bodice. When I first started sewing again, of course I had to choose the Basque waistline, probably the most difficult to sew. Great tutorial and the three rows of gathering stitches is a great tip. I definitely like the rust-colored ribbon for contrast.

    1. HI Susette,
      Yes, that pointed waist line can be a little intimidating… and it does take a little bit extra time to get it just right… I have spent many a time picking out that point because it “wasn’t” a point… and then retrying…
      I’ll show the different colors woven through the lace… it’s too hard for me to decide.
      Thanks Susette,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  6. Thank you for a great tutorial on sewing points! Now if only you would do a tutorial on adding “bretelles” on semi puffed sleeves. I love the look for toddler and young girl dolls. Rosemarie Ionker books of patterns for dolls inspire but I need a little more explanation of the how-to part.
    Of the ribbon colors I like the lighter rust color on the right. As Linda said the material has muted tones and I think the lighter one blends better for spring. The color and look of the cameo was perfect, it just fought with the large flower placement on the bodice.

    1. HI Dorothy,
      You’ll have to give me an example of what you mean… do you just mean a ruffle attached to a strap such as on a pinafore? or maybe a ruffle added in the sleeve area that extends on top of the sleeve gathers? I looked up bretelles and got varied looks…
      I’ll have to show the ribbons laced in the trim… and see what everyone thinks…
      Thanks for asking,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  7. Great tutorial! I have made outfits with v-fronts and they can be troublesome without knowing some of the techniques to get them right. Each pattern I’ve used has a different idea of how to do it, but I’m choosing yours. The big flower on the bodice and the one at the top of the skirt are in good alignment which makes it pleasing to the eye. Just happenstance or on purpose? I really like the tatted lace on the sleeve. I bought a tatting kit but haven’t used it yet. I really want to learn how to do it because sometimes I’d like something different than what is out there.

    Poor hubby. I came out of the bedroom this morning and he was in his recliner with his blanket up to his face. He looked miserable. He seems to have an infected tooth and didn’t get any sleep last night. I called his dentist and he is calling in an antibiotic and pain killer so he can survive until he goes in Tuesday. He has cardio therapy Monday. Hopefully he’ll feel better by then and won’t have to cancel that. Just heard from the pharmacy that his prescriptions are ready so must leave. Will comment on the ribbon(s) and petticoat, etc. later.

    1. HI Barbara,
      The bodice flower was a fussy cut but the one of the skirt just so happened that way… I didn’t plan it! :o) I’m glad you like the tatted lace…it’s a good thing everyone likes it, because I stitched it on with a tiny zig zag and was hoping it would go over well… *whew*

      Time to put on your nurse hat and take care of hubby… we can talk sewing later!
      Blessings, Jeanne

  8. I agree with Susette — it’s a very Felicity dress.
    Because it’s spring, I first chose the cream ribbon, but then I thought that the rust would be a better accent for the lace, and I think I’ll stick with it unless you need two colors, and than I’d add the cream. No pantalettes because they’re not period, but you always provide Felicity dresses with lovely petticoats to give the skirts volume. I don’t think petticoats showed in Felicity’s era. You know how I feel about Felicity hats — definitely in favor — and finding the ribbons for that may help you decide on dress ribbons. Do you have appropriate lace for a cap?
    With a narrow hem or facing, I think the length is going to be just right — ankle length was common and Felicity is an active girl. Stockings are a must and garters wouldl be a pretty touch.
    This outfit is really coming together quickly — I think this is being one of your most productive years.

    1. HI Marilyn,
      I’ve been trying the ribbons and can’t decide by myself… so I’ll have to show them and see what everyone thinks. The cream is very pretty, though…
      I’m going to work on the petticoat and get the dress hemmed and the snaps sewn on.. .then we can discuss embellishing later…
      I was thinking that very same thing today… I have been cranking out the dresses at a pretty good clip, haven’t I? Except I practically missed Easter… I thought I had till the end of April… but Rebecca informed me, I DON’T! Oops!
      Thanks Marilyn,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  9. Dorothy in PA and the World

    Dear Jeanne, this outfit is moving along swiftly to completion. I think the fabric is very pretty.

    You asked me to remind the Sofa Sisters of the Virtual Doll Convention. Here’s my reminder. The Convention begins next Friday. There are TONS of programs. The Sisters might enjoy workshops on: Doll Stringing
    Doll Wig Making
    There is a Sewing Class.
    There is a seminar on Barbie.
    There are visits to the NC Museum of Dolls AND three several private doll collections.

    I think that 1200 people have signed up so far. All of this can be had for only $5!

    Here’s the link to the website: https://www.virtualdollconvention.com/

    I can hardly wait!

    1. I’m all signed up and ready to go. I looking forward to the Ellowyne Wilde doll sale. Got my eye on one of those.

      1. Dorothy in PA and the World

        Dear Barbara, I will be waiving to you. I know you won’t be able to see me but you will “feel” my waive (laugh). I am really looking forward to touring the doll collections.

    2. HI Dorothy,
      I’m glad you like Felicity’s dress so far… and THANK YOU for the reminder on the Virtual Doll Convention…You have MY permission to post this link in every comment you make until the convention starts…
      I’m going to finish my comments and then go back and check it out…
      Blessings, Jeanne

  10. Happy First Day of Spring!!! It is here at last and a bright and super sunny morning with blue skies here.
    The lace on the sleeves is a lovely touch. Seeing the close up of the sleeves, I just noticed that the fabric has pea pods in it as well as what looks like a poppy “shaker” ( the part that’s left after the poppy petals fall).. How very unusual for not a typical “garden” fabric. Oh, it’s fat quarters.
    I always enjoy when you share the pattern you are using and then your take on it.
    Thank you for the tutorial. Three basting threads seems like the perfect way.
    I love the rust ribbon on Felicity’s left shoulder. Personally, I would leave the dress long. Pantalettes weren’t worn in the Colonial era. Civil War? yes. Victorian? Most definitely! Colonial? no.
    I agree with Marilyn, you are just whizzing along with the dress making. No sooner has one sold than you have another ready or nearly ready to go and it’s certainly fun to watch.
    I forgot to mention yesterday about being sorry your favorite shop as well as Barbara’s was closing. There have been quite a few privately owned shops in town that have closed over the years. A couple I still sorely miss.

    1. HI Laura,
      YES…it’s Spring and we can officially say it! YAY!
      I saw those pea pods too and thought they were cute! I think this fabric is very pretty… I wonder if it came in other colors? hmmm
      The quilt shop I was referring to is having sales each week now until she gets rid of the stuff in there… I need to make another trip there… well, I don’t actually NEED to go there, but it’s a WANT…
      Thanks Laura,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  11. I just checked the auction and I see there was a bidding war at the end, congratulations Emmie did well.
    Thank you for your tutorial It was very helpful and interesting. I must try the 3 row gathering I does look neater and flatter.
    Like some others, I wouldn’t use pantalettes for the era. They didn’t wear any underwear then (and apparently clamydia was almost unknown because of that, so I read anyway. Lots of other Venereal diseases but not that one!). I would just shorten the dress, I think day dresses of the time could be a little shorter so long as the ankles didn’t show (might inflame the men!)
    I prefer the two red ribbons as well, I thought they made the lace ‘pop’. I am really looking forward to seeing
    Linda, I had problems the other day as well trying to post, I think it was Barbara who also said she had had the same issues.
    Sam has taken up doing macrame. She made an owl for a friend for her birthday. it was really lovely, then yesterday she made two more owls and a tree of life. She was going to give the first owl to Helen for the market but Caitlin saw it and snaffled it. I was allowed to take it to show but had to bring it back. She is going to make some for next week though. I found two colouring pages on Pinterest, one of a cheetah and one of a tiger, so going to try to make a couple of bags with those faces if I can fit them in. If they don’t sell I know Ashley will want the cheetah lol. She loves cats, the more ferocious the better lol.
    I am so looking forward to seeing Felicity in her outfit.
    Better get myself into gear and get ready for church. See you all Tuesday. (I have to wait till then boo hoo)

    1. HI Anne,
      Yes, 3 seconds before the listing ended, it jumped from $87 to $118! I was stunned, but very happy… Emmie… not so much! :o(
      NO pantalettes, but yes to a pretty petticoat… I’ll work on that… and the ribbons will have to be shown so you all can decide… although sometimes if I get conflicting likes, it’s just as hard as it was before…
      I used to a lot of macrame and did an owl too for my mom… I loved it and she kept it for a long time…
      I better do some more on Felicity’s dress set…
      Thanks Anne,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  12. Sandra M Lyons

    Belated Happy Birthday to your husband and it sounds like he had a great celebration.

    This fabric is gorgeous. You are so lucky to have shops to purchase fabric but sorry to hear one of your favorites is closing. My granddaughter and I were talking about the possibility of opening a small shoppe in my towns. We have Joann’s and that is 90 minutes or plus drive.

    I love the “V” waist and it made me think of my wedding dress it has the “V” and it’s lovely. I think the beige ribbon is very pretty and elegant or the lighter of the reds. Hard to tell exactly the color on the monitor. Reds are tricky. Yes the ladies of that era went commando as the men say. I vote for a petticoat and small hem at the bottom. Or you could the hem deeper and if you had enough lace have a lace trim at the bottom of the dress.

    I can’t wait to see the headboard. My father was a carpenter and build the most beautiful pieces. I have a few and cherish them.
    Spring arrived but you would never know. It has been windy, cold and raining. Today is the first day that the sun has came out but still coat weather. I love it.

  13. Thank you Sandra,
    I’m going to show the ribbons Monday and maybe there will be a consensus on which one to use…
    What a neat idea to start a fabric store…I would love to buy this one that is for sale, but we can’t… I hope your dream of a fabric shop comes true!!!
    Blessings, Jeanne

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