If you missed Part 1 of this Sew-Along, you can see it HERE. Today we are going to finish our little girl’s dress. I hope you’re ready to begin…
We left off with the seams of our dress being clipped and trimmed.
You’re going to want to turn the straps now… you can either push them through with your finger or use a pair of hemostats and grab that strap and pull it through or just use your fingers and inch it out to the right side. I tried all 3 ways and it all worked pretty easily no matter which method I used.
I do like to use a medium sized crochet hook and push out my straps making sure to get them to a point.
When you have the straps pulled through, take it to your iron and press them flat. Turn the dress wrong side out and just between the straps pull the front section of the facing to the inside just a little bit… so the dress fabric shows about 1/8″ or less. This keeps the facing from showing and makes your dress look much nicer.
I’ve roughly pinned where you can under stitch the facing. This will help hold the facing on the inside and keep it from peeking out.
Open up the dress from the facing and stitch along the edge of the facing…
It should look something like this between the straps. You can only open up the fabric so far because the straps are in the way… Just stitch anywhere from 6″ to about 9″ depending on the size of your dress neck opening.
Press the seams under the arms, making sure to pull the facing down a bit and keep it from peeking out there too. Pin it in place.
You can either “stitch in the ditch” (right in the seam line) or you can stitch the facing down under the arm by hand. I chose to do it on the machine. I pull my threads to the backside and tie them off.
Once you have the under arms stitched down and the neckline under stitched, give it another good pressing.
I usually don’t go by markings on the pattern as to the front of the dress…somehow the dress always shifts a bit. So I wait until I’m finished with the dress and do a little measuring to get things straight and even if I’m adding buttons or an applique to the front.
I measured from armpit to armpit and put a pin in place then I folded the dress in half to see if that was truly the center of the dress…
You can see my pins in a few places to line up my bulldog applique.
Taking a picture and looking at it on my computer usually is the best way for me to tell if it’s straight.
I decided it looked straight and proceeded to stitch around it using white thread and staying on the outer edge of it. It was an adhesive applique that stuck in place but could be removed and repositioned if necessary. The only problem with the adhesive appliques is they gum up your needle. It causes your thread to break sometimes too. I just stitch a few inches and take my fingers and wipe off my needle, then stitch some more. It’s not hard, it’s just a little bit annoying.
I had some jumbo rick rack in black and decided this would be cute at the bottom of my dress…
I thought my bulldog needed a little sprucing up…some buttons for her eyes and a bow for “her” hair! :o)
I gave it another good pressing and took a few pictures of my completed dress…I tied the shoulder straps where I thought they would probably be tied on Jaycee…
I like having the black and white polka dot as the accent on this dress. Much better than all red.
Well, we did it! I hope you like yours as much as I enjoyed making mine. If you happened to follow along with me, send me a picture of your completed dress and I’ll show it on my blog! :o)
See you tomorrow,
Blessings, Jeanne
That turned out so cute, Jeanne! I do love the polka-dot contrast facing, and how it shows when the straps are tied.
Love the bulldog applique, and how you enhanced it, too. I’m sure Jaycee (and her folks) will love it!
By the way, I just read thru everyone’s comments on yesterday’s post and have to say something about multi-sized patterns.
I ***LOVE*** them! I’m very short, and I have really narrow shoulders and a thick waist, so I use a combination of about 4 different sizes (shoulders, bust, waist, hips) to come up with “my” size. The first time I used a multi-sized pattern was when I took my first Stretch & Sew class, back in about 1970 or so. As I continued to use them, I learned how to make the length adjustments as I traced my pattern, so I didn’t waste Do-Sew (tracing material)–and it made me feel like I was using a more “normal” pattern! (I shorten my patterns a total of about 6-8″ for a dress, for example) Of course, the S&S patterns were printed on heavy paper, and Meant to be traced! I do sometimes trace independent patterns even if they are printed on tissue, as they are much more expensive to buy extras! (and not always in print a long time…)
When my son was little, I bought the S&S kids’ patterns (t-shirt, raglan-sleeve t-shirt, pull-on pants), which came in sizes 2-12, and traced every size (I used the pull-on pants for his pj bottoms) as he was growing up. I also used them in sewing for all our grandchildren! I think they were about $2 each, back in the day…..I got my money’s worth!
Thanks Charlotte,
I used to use sheets of the marking paper and trace the different size patterns onto pattern paper with a tracing wheel. You just placed your tracing paper face down on the pattern paper and wheeled over the pattern with your tracing paper, moving the tracing paper as you went. The pattern needed to be pinned in the middle areas to keep it from shifting…
Thanks Charlotte,
Blessings, Jeanne
That’s what pattern weights are for, Jeanne! And the tracing material I used, Do-Sew, is kind of like a lightweight Pellon sew-in interfacing from about that same era, only a little more sheer. I just trace with a ballpoint pen, and any marks that have to be transferred I do with a pencil. Then I can use my wash-out marker directly thru the Do-Sew without transferring INK from the pattern!
How cute this dress turned out, Jeanne! I didn’t comment yesterday, since we had company, went out for breakfast, and spent quite a good chunk of the day visiting with out of town friends.
I did want to mention, it does seem to me that sergers use an extraordinarily large amount of thread! Now, yes, I do like to get garments that are serged, but what did you do to finish edges of clothes before you had a serger? I don’t really make clothes anymore, and when I do make a doll outfit, I just pink the edges. A serger would be a waste of time and money to me, but I was wondering what a good second alternative would be, according to you, the expert! I do recall making my daughter’s First Communion dress, that I did some kind of whipstitch or something all along any exposed edges. Actually, I don’t think there were many sergers on the scene at that time. When did they become commonplace for the average person that sewed at home?
I love the cute little bow and the button eyes that you added to the applique, a perfect Jeanne Marie touch that I am sure will make this a dress a special one for one little girl!
Thank you Linda,
Sergers do take more thread, but the spools have LOTS more thread on them than a regular spool. I watch for the serger thread to go on sale and stock up then. If you sew professionally or for the public, you almost have to have a serger.
I used to use pinking shears before I had my serger.
Some sewing machines have an overcast stitch
That works like a serger..
But a serger is not only efficient, it is FAST…
I’m glad you enjoyed the sew-along! Thanks for being one of my readers, Linda!
Blessings, Jeanne
Jeanne, love the dress and the extra touches to the bull dog. Do you usually use three threads on server for doll clothes and did you make the little blue doll dress you showed the pattern piece of? Nice work and can’t believe how you can sew, give instructions, and add pictures too. I am lucky to just sit and sew anymore.
Sandra C.
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for the compliments on Jaycee’s dress. It was fun to make.
No, I didn’t make a dress from that pattern. I just cut that out freehand to show something similar. It was only about 5″ long.
I have been thinking about a doll pattern like this dress I just made. :o)
Thanks Sandra,
Blessings, Jeanne
I have enjoyed watching the sew-along these last two posts. I just marvel at the talent of many people who have worked hard to learn how to sew whether it’s out of necessity or a live for creating and sewing.
Your work, Jeanne, is so neat and tidy. It is really interesting watching the process.
There were sewers in my family but I simply never cared to learn. However, I always appreciated their talents and I benefited from pretty clothes my mother made me as well as doll clothes both my mother and sister made for me.
I admire all those who sew out there.
This little dress/pattern is so sweet and summery. I really like the two prints you used. Very fun for any little girl or doll. You gave a very nice and understandable tutorial on how to make this sweet outfit.
Thanks so much, Paula,
Even though you ended up being one of the non-sewers in your family, you still are very appreciative of those who do. I appreciate all your kind words. Thank you so much!
I have mailed Jaycee’s dress to her, so I’ll wait and share a picture of her when I receive one.
Blessings, Jeanne
Loved watching your sew-along. A few years ago I could have made it for all 7 granddaughters but time flies and now they are all too big and too old.😢
Loved Charlottes reminiscing about Stretch and Sew. Those were the days. How I loved those classes and fabric. Not long ago I found some stretch and sew fabric I had made a top out of years ago. I bought it…probably won’t use it but it was such a fond memory and such good fabric
Hi Kathie,
As I’ve been cleaning and organizing in my sewing room, I’ve run across lots of fabrics that I made little dresses from. It brings back lots of memories…fond memories.
I ran across 2 Stretch and Sew patterns in my stash. Loved them too…
Thanks Kathie,
Blessings, Jeanne
You have such a talent for combining fabrics, patterns, trims and colors. What a great dress and clear instructions.
I have a tip I remember from a Vogue Sewing Book from about 1960! When you reach the point of a collar or a right angle in sewing, stop one stitch short of where you would normally turn the corner and take one stitch across the point and then continue stitching the corner or point. This small stitch allows the fabric that’s left after trimming to avoid creating a slight bulge at the tip when the item is turned, especially like sewing the acute angle of the ends of the ties on the dress. It’s a little hard to describe but it works.
I like the buttons with the beautiful gray fabric and think the buttons would look good if a quarter turn was made with each one so the points were at the top to match the pattern in the fabric. Just a thought.
I forgot to mention the wonderful buys at the 100-mile sale. Congrats on doing the whole route. I think the white tulle bolt has the snowflake pattern. I used it to cover a red panne velvet tablecloth I made to go over Felicity’s table for Christmas. An oatmeal box would make a good table as you could make it any height you like in case you don’t have a real table or it could cover any overturned straight-sided bowl. The trick is getting the stretchy tulle cut to the right size when placed on the table.
Thanks for the tip on sewing points. They are hard to get right and I’m going to try this.
Hj Susette,
I do what you mentioned about taking one stitch across the end of the point…I looked on my picture of the straps and can zoom in to see it… I might show that so everyone knows what you are talking about… thanks!
Thsnks for your thoughts about the buttons…good point!!
Good idea about using an oatmeal box for a table with a round skirt. I wouldn’t have to ask my hubby to make this kind!!! :o)
Thanks Susette,
Blessings, Jeanne
Dear Team Jeanne, touch down, home run, goal!!! Yea you did it.
I think I mixed up my sports terms a bit but I am waving my pom poms, Jeanne spotted me (laugh).
Jeanne, your dress is adorable. I can’t wait to see what others have done.
Hi Dorothy,
I’m thrilled that you enjoyed my dress tutorial.
It was fun to know you were cheering for us.
I hope someone made a dress…so far, no pictures…but that’s okay. It was just something I wanted to do…
Blessings, Jeanne
Aw, very sweet Jeanne. I’m sure she will love it. Great finishing details. I guess I like Miss Bulldog’s little checked ribbon the best. And the large rickrack on the bottom really adds to the overall cuteness. 🙂
Like Charlotte, I mix around pattern sizes to get something that fits. Now for dollies, not me anymore. But, I still do not like how printed patterns now come with all of the sizes stamped on top of one another in one piece of tissue. How much more can it cost for separate tissue patterns? Trying to follow the overlapping lines is difficult for me even though some come in different colors, but not many. And then, you’re left with only one size so you can’t go back and make something else in a different size. Buying extra patterns when they are on sale is a good idea, but wasteful environmentally. Yesterday, someone mention that they just clip up to the size they want and fold back the rest. Sounds promising. I will have to try that next time I make something for big people. 🙂
Thank you for a fun Sew-along. Still working on my dolly version, but I’ll send a pic when it is finished.
Thanks Joy,
I’m glad you enjoyed following along…and glad you enjoyed that little checked bow! It was the last thing I added to the dress.
I can remember buying patterns, cutting out one size and saving the scraps of the other sizes and using them when I made a different size…I didn’t do that very many times…too much trouble!
I’ll be looking for your dolly version!
Blessings, Jeanne
What’s not to love about this adorable dress/jumper! It would lend itself very well to having something under it for cooler weather – a blouse, t-shirt or turtleneck. It would be cute in a lightweight corduroy too with tights or leggings under it. I think the polka dot fabric is the perfect accent and the bulldog just got cuter and cuter with the added touches. I would love to have this pattern in a doll size (maybe several doll sizes).
I totally remember the days of Stretch ‘n Sew. Was sorry to see it go away. I wasn’t comfortable with sewing knits back then and took a class with my good friend who was also an avid sewer. I took the classes in the evening. Problem is I was pregnant at the time and had trouble staying awake during class after working all day, but I did enjoy it. I still have some of the patterns and a few of the packages for making t-shirts that contained the thread and binding. The fabric still seems to be good so I will probably use it for doll outfits. They’re fabric, etc., was top quality.
Linda D’s comment was interesting. I have a serger but it is a low-end one and I’ve never learned to use all it’s functions. I do find it a little intimidating. Threading it can be a real headache, especially with my close-up vision these days, but I found by doing the method where you cut the previous threads and tie on the new ones works the best. But I don’t run the serger to pull the new thread through I do it by hand – one at a time. I use only three threads usually and I never use the cutter. Sergers do use a large amount of thread but it is fairly inexpensive. But I solved the problem of wanting to match the thread to the color of the fabric without buying four spools of serger thread in every color. I have a Bob ‘n Serge. That way I just buy one spool of several little-used colors like pink, purple and yellow. Then I load three (you can do up to five) bobbins with the color of choice. I have tons of old bobbins that work well for this. But if you do this for a larger piece you have to watch you don’t run out of one of the bobbins, since one does run out faster than the others. Before sergers and still sometimes I use pinking shears. If I’m doing a pretty little girls dress, I like a French seam.
I admire Charlotte for the effort she is willing to make to sew things that fit well. I bought the Lutterloh system for making patterns based on only two body measurements, but I started making clothes for my grandchildren back then and never got around to using it.
Now that the child’s dress is finished, can’t wait to see what comes our way next. Great tutorial, Jeanne!
Thank you Barbara,
I know it was late in the season but I thought a cute little tee or long sleeve crew and some leggings would carry it into Fall.
I do the same thing as you when changing thread on my serger. By tying on the new thread to the existing thread and carefully pulling the thread by hand through all the notches and feeds, it works pretty well.
If I have thread similar to the fabric color I change it, but if not, I just use white or cream for light colored fabric and black or navy for the darker fabrics. Sometimes I’ll use 2 or even 3 different colors on my serger and it blends together.
Thanks Barbara,
Blessings, Jeanne
I like the idea of using different color threads on the serger. Gotta try that!
Before sergers I always zigzagged my seams. When I use my serger, I sew the seam with it. Once and done. Very rarely do I sew the seam with a straight stitch and then serge each seam allowance. I use all four threads to serge American girl clothes. Also serge everything in white thread. Never saw the need to change colors.
Your little girl’s dress is adorable, Jeanne. I had a boy and sewed cute things when he was little but that doesn’t last long. I sewed for nieces but the youngest is 16 so those days are gone. I’m praying for a granddaughter some day!
Thanks Julia,
Yes, I should have mentioned just zigzagging the seams too… I forgot to mention it.
My first was a boy and he got PLENTY of my handmade things to wear. I used to make his shorts and ball caps and spent money on the tees and colorful high top tennies. He was always cute when he was little! Even made him some rompers…and knickers. I need to find some pictures of those. He’d die if he saw me posting them. His 15 minutes of fame in knickers… :o)
Thanks so much,
Blessings, Jeanne