I need your thoughts for ONE more design element on this Civil War dress…

First of all…thank you SO VERY MUCH for all the kind comments and compliments about my blog yesterday. I am very humbled by many of your thoughts. It was my 5th Anniversary oops… “Blogaversary” yesterday. Yep, my computer knows very well of the late night hours I have put in sometimes writing these posts the last 5 years. But I love it… it’s become a habit for me…and one I would hate to give up. It’s a good thing! :o)

I would love to have answered you all, but I was so behind on some housework that needed to be done, that I didn’t let myself look at the comments until after noon…and there were 22 I think by then… even some emails. I decided when I read Joy’s comments about enjoying the day, “Jeanne Day” that I took her advice and just kind of basked in all the kind words. Thank you again… Nothing keeps me motivated quite like your sweet words.

Okay, so at the bottom of yesterday’s post, I mentioned a GIVEAWAY… and said when you entered, mention something you might like from me… a doll slip, or gloves, or a piece of lace, or some fabric you’d seen in my pictures, or buttons, or trim, or several other things. Well, the majority of you were too kind to even ask for something… so if your name happens to be the one drawn, I’ll just have to guess what you might want… or you can speak up and let me know of something…

I had lots of entries in the comments and by email and I woke my hubby up at midnight to draw a name out of the bowl. He was a bit groggy but he shuffled around the pieces of paper with all your names on them and drew one out, “Susette?” Congratulations Susette! You won!! It’s funny, you were the very last person to enter a comment… I guess “the last shall be first” in your case! You mentioned you’d like a pretty red tulle slip like you wore for Prom… :o) Would your girls like a red prom slip in the long or short version? Or now that you are the winner, do you have something else in mind? Just let me know!

Thanks for playing along everyone!

OKAY…now about that peplum…here is a picture of it before when I asked for your opinions…

Something didn’t look quite right about it and I thought it was an optical illusion because of the squares in the fabric design… I thought the bigger row of squares on the bottom of the peplum made it look like the waist seam began right there, when actually there was about a 1/4″ piece of the square on the row above it and THEN there was the actual waist seam.

I think it was Lorna and Charlotte who thought the right side of the peplum looked longer and the lace maybe wasn’t gathered as evenly as it could have been… Then I think a few others agreed with her.

Susette mentioned she’d like to see the white placket run all the way down… I’m assuming she meant onto the peplum…

Joy was in agreement with me for possibly shortening the bodice just a little bit to keep it from looking quite so long and square.

Laura mentioned the kind of bold blue square right smack dab in the middle of the peplum… Joy noticed it too…

Then Christal suggested a thin ribbon belt to solve the problem…

So after looking and studying it, I measured it, holding my tape measure at the waist seam on the right side of the front placket… I measured from the 4″ mark and it went to 5 1/8″ mark. That was 1 and 1/8″ long.

Then I moved my tape measure to the left side of the placket. It was just 1″ long… that doesn’t seem like it would make that much difference, but when you are dealing with squares, it was just enough to throw things off…

So speaking of “Off”…it had to come off… it would drive me crazy to keep it the way it was… You can see in this picture where it dips on the left side… pulling it up.. It was pointed out by some of you, that the lace was maybe a bit too long and should maybe be shortened just a bit.

Here is the backside… you can see again where it is off…

So once I had it off and the lace taken off (carefully) I cut another peplum out (very carefully) this time, being extra careful in cutting it straight and matching the pattern up on each side of the center front. I ALSO decided to cut my squares out differently. This time I cut them so the waist seam would be stitched right above a “whole” square and not a partial square. I let the “partial squares” be on the bottom edge of the peplum. I was hoping to do away with that optical illusion of making the dress waist look longer than it actually was.

If you click on this picture, it will enlarge and you can see it better… the full squares are at the waistline this time and not cut off a the bottom edge.

I decided to cut off about 1/4″ of the top edge of my lace to make it a bit more narrow. Next I tried gathering it up… I tried my ruffler, but it just kept getting caught in the design of the lace. I tried stitching it onto to paper after I had run 2 rows of basting stitches at the top edge…

That still didn’t make it as even as I wanted… so I took those basting stitches out and ran one row of stitching close to the top edge and then another row of basting about in the middle of the lace. It sort of shirred it up when I pulled the threads…and looked the most even since trying all this.

I treated it like delicate tissue and very carefully stitched it 1/4″ from the bottom curved edge of the peplum. Then I carefully checked to see that it looked even and added my lining and stitched it again…

I still decided the bodice was just a smidgen too long so I stitched 1/4″ from the bottom edge and trimmed that off.

Then I stitched it on and I was finally happy…

SO…HERE’S my design question for today… As Eden was laying on her back in the “original peplum” I had a 2″ scrap of the white cotton trim and I laid it on top of her bodice and extended it down onto the peplum…and then laid 2 of my tiny buttons on top… like this..
(is this what you meant Susette?)

JUST WONDERING… do you like that? This is a close up of what I did…REMEMBER…It’s just PINNED ON for now…

So do you like it WITHOUT the placket extended onto the peplum…

…or WITH the placket extended onto the peplum?

I don’t think it would be too hard to add it… although I probably worked 3-4 hours getting done what I showed you in today’s post. Surely I could add a little 2″ extension into the waist seam and up to the lace…without TOO much trouble.

I also added a row of lace around the bottom section of the dress that matches the sleeves and peplum ruffle.

So… just give me some feedback on which way you like the looks of the dress… I’ll be waiting to hear from you!

See you tomorrow,
Blessings, Jeanne

29 thoughts on “I need your thoughts for ONE more design element on this Civil War dress…”

  1. Charlotte Trayer

    Congratulations to Susette! (I keep hoping one of these days it will be my turn…but I figure when it’s my turn, it’s my turn, and not before! LOL)

    Oh, what a Difference!!!! The new peplum looks SO much better now, with the pattern centered differently and the narrower lace. And, yes, I DO like the extended placket so much better! As it is, it’s okay, but it kind of looks like you ran out of trim…..however, with the extension, it is just Perfect!! Looks more “finished”, I think.

    1. Hi Charlotte,
      Yes, Charlotte, one of these days it’s going to be your turn!!! Hang in there.
      As soon as you said. “It looks like you ran out of trim” I realized that was exactly right…
      So I will “finish” it down onto the peplum!
      Thanks for helping me out…
      Blessings, Jeanne

  2. I must be getting old or something….I didn’t see anything wrong with the top. You went through a lot of work to get the peplum the way you wanted. You didn’t give up—-good for you.
    I did like the peplum with the lace extended to the bottom, thou.
    I hope you are having a good summer—with no flooding from the summer storms. The weather people always say that the rain hits here in STL, then heads to your area.
    I have been getting your blog if I go to your website. It doesn’t go to my email.
    I’m always happy when I can get it.

    1. Hi Diana,
      It might not show up too well in my pictures, but in person, you cold see clearly that it wasn’t even from side to side.. and that lace was sewn between the top fabric and the lining…not just stitched on the bottom and turned up…SO it all had to come off to fix it.

      Moral of this story…DONT use checks or squared fabric if you have curves in your dress…
      Most of the flooding is south of us…about 45 miles away. It has been awful for everyone in East Cape Girardeau…
      I’m glad you enjoy reading my posts each day.
      Blessings, Jeanne

  3. Can I come over and sew with you? and Play with dolls.

    I am also visually picky. Diana Jenness says she does not see it bc she thinks she is getting old. No no no that is not correct, Diane. This is a “picky little thing” some people see, others do not. I do not know how else to describe it, but I also have things that “bug” me
    So far your work progress is wonderful Jeanne.
    Congratulations to Susette!!

    The extended bodice placket looks good. I love the changes you made. I like the extended placket bc it really looks realistic.
    Happy Friday Jeanne. I know how you feel about the chores. I had my doctor check up on Wednesday and asked about a prescription for a magic wand. They do not offer those yet. What are these pharmaceutical companies doing all day?

    1. Hi Rosemary,
      Wouldn’t it be fun if we could all get together and sew and play?
      They used to call me “Hawkeye” when I was in the Clothing and Textiles department st SIU…I could spot a flaw or a hole a mile away… I think that’s when my “perfectionism” in sewing began. I can never leave anything alone once I’ve seen something that irks me…
      Thanks Rosemary,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  4. Mary Sue Hamlet

    Definitely like the refined peplum and yes to the extended placket. I’m not so sure about the row of lace on the skirt. It doesn’t stand out enough on the print fabric, for me. How about a row of that ribbon from the neckline bow with or without the lace?

    1. Thank you Mary Sue,
      It’s late and I haven’t made it into my sewing room yet, but that lace looks like it’s going to be extended!!
      Oh yea….that lace on the skirt is going to come off too!!
      Thanks for your thoughts about the dress…
      Blessings, Jeanne

  5. Love it with the extended placket. So glad you had enough fabric to cut a new peplum, funny how piecing together prints can change the entire look. They don’t call it optical illusion for nothing. I’m not a fan of the lace in the skirt. Being flat and not gathered it doesn’t look matched (to me anyway). Have you tried this dress on Addy?
    Aren’t you glad you asked for opinions? Lol

    1. Hi Dorothy,
      Well, it looks like this post was unanimous with everyone liking the placket extended and the lace on the skirt removed.
      I am glad I asked for everyone’s opinions… and no, I haven’t tried the dress on Addy, but I plan to…once I get it finished…
      Blessings, Jeanne

  6. Well, a big congratulations to Susette! Can’t wait to see that red slip. 🙂
    Please extend the peplum. And I would love to see how a narrow blue belt, suggested by Crystal, along the waist might might look. Not sure about the bottom skirt lace. Might detract from the lovely top. Would involve a lot of ripping though. Maybe lace with a blue ribbon threaded through it might tie it in more. Just a thought.
    Doesn’t sound like you had much of a Jeanne Day with all that sewing of the new peplum etc. Maybe today. 🙂
    Our new bed is arriving on Monday, and today we are going to the county fair. Tell George no feathers shown this year to prevent the spread of I think it is an outbreak of Newcastle disease. But, I think there will be rabbits as well as cows, sheep, etc. and some fun fair food and free ice cream 🙂

    1. Hi Joy,
      As I was stitching on that lace around the bottom of the dress with a tiny zigzag, I was thinking, I sure hope I don’t have to take this off… guess what? I do…
      My “Jeanne Day” today, was even busier than my yesterday….momma things.
      I haven’t even made it to my sewing room yet…YET… that’s the key word.

      I hope you had fun at the county fair…did the grands go with you?
      Blessings, Jeanne

      1. Thank you for asking about our grands. No, they are in their whole county swim finals today and this weekend. Pretty amazing to me at ages 6 and 8. I’ve never seen a six year old girl do the backstroke so well. Brag Brag. And the eight swims the whole medley. They are pretty good. 🙂

  7. Wow! When I started reading today’s post, I hoped I wouldn’t win after I saw lots of people said they didn’t want anything. But it immediately popped into my mind to add an extra $50 to a donation I make monthly to a charity that helps children and send a copy of the receipt to Jeanne, not for publication, but to let her know what I think of her generosity in offering the giveaway. Everybody wins!

    Someone suggested that the ruffled red slip looked like it could be a dress. Well, my mother did made one after I dreamed it up, patient lady that she was. No fancy ruffle attachments for sewing machines that long ago. I’d love to have a long red ruffled slip for my Molly Doll, my era for sure.

    You certainly went an extra ten miles in altering the dress. Everything you sew looks wonderful in the end. It must be so confusing to have so many kibitzers, but you did ask for it! It’s lovely but sorry it was so much trouble.

    1. Awwww Susette, how kind of you!
      I will get that red “prom” slip made for Molly, and I saw your email about the wide white lace waistband… Molly will be the belle of the ball!!
      I like that word…kibitzers…and yes…I did ask!!
      Thanks Susette,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  8. I love, love, love what you did with the lace on the peplum. I wasn’t sure I’d like the trim extended onto the peplum, but I do. I think I like the skirt better without the lace. It seems distracting. Without it the focus is on the beautiful top and the fabric in the skirt is lovely without it. It is a beautiful dress.

    My Betsy’s outfit looks much better with the capris than the shorts, so now I’m on to a top for the shorts.

    Congratulations to Susette!! Can’t wait to see the red slip.

    1. Hi Barbara,
      You are just like everyone else…add the extension on the top…lose the lace on the skirt… glad I asked!!
      Congrats on Betsy’s new outfit!! Keep up the sewing!!
      Thank you Barbara,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  9. Pretty dress! I like the added white down the front and the shorter bodice. I agree that the lace on the skirt distracts. I think it would look even prettier with a darker blue ribbon at the waist to pull it all together.

    1. Hi Marla,
      Well, another one for adding the trim at the top and removing the lace at the bottom.
      I’ll have to see about a ribbon at the waist…
      Thanks for your opinion too.
      Blessings, Jeanne

  10. Congrats to Susette! Hope we get to see that slip on your Molly. ♥️
    I like the white trim extended down the peplum to the lace ruffle. I also think the lace down on the skirt disappears. Do you have enough to ruffle and put the ruffle in place of the flat lace? One thing I learned. When I make a civil war dress, I will avoid any square patterns in the fabric! 😁

    1. Hi Julua,
      I’ll try to remember to take a picture of that red slip before it’s mailed.
      I don’t have enough of that lace to add it on ruffled, but the flat is definitely coming off.

      So I scared you off from sewing with fabrics that have squares, huh? The are okay…as long as you dont have any curved pattern pieces…
      Thanks so much,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  11. You got it right! There were so many changes but in the end it looks so nice. You really hang in there! Not a fan of the lace on the skirt either. The close up pictures give us a great way to see your changes.
    Susette you better go buy a lottery ticket. You’re lucky this week!
    Have a good weekend everyone!

    1. Thank you Kathie,
      I’m glad you enjoyed seeing the changes and liked them. I’m glad I didn’t have half my readers want the peplum just as it is and half wanting the lace added down onto the peplum… that might have been hard to decide.
      Thsnks so much for your thoughts,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  12. Yay, Susette wins! Congrats to you dear friend! That slip will be a beautiful one, for sure, and we must see pictures when you get it!

    I am late today, because I could not bear to write on that dang iPad and make all those crazy mistakes again, so waited to get on the desktop. I’m sure you had a laugh or two yesterday at my expense, Jeanne!

    Well, OK, now what I am liking about the dress, is that you have, or may, extend the white placket down to the peplum. That looks better I think. I too, am not a fan of that lace on the skirt, it just doesn’t “mesh” well, and kind of distracts from the top. It doesn’t match in color either, maybe because it is not gathered. But oh my, that dress is going to be just beautiful when you get it done!

    My question, is, will the price go up more than it ordinarily would, due to all the changes and problems you had with it? I wonder if that is factored in the price of a dress.

    1. Hi Linda,
      I did laugh at your comments…it was actually hilarious to read…but I understand your need to wait for the desktop today!! :o)
      I can’t wait to get that lace taken off the skirt and the lace extended down the peplum…

      The price probably won’t go up in the listing… I usually plan for these kinds of things…but it depends on what else I put with this… so we’ll see.
      Thanks Linda,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  13. Dear Jeanne
    This dress is going to be beautiful and all the extra work on the peplum is so worth it. There is a saying over here that ‘millimeters are miles when working on small things’ and it’s so true. Often people don’t realize how much more difficult it is to make dolls clothes than human clothes if you are aiming for quality.
    I also prefer the trim extending to the bottom of the peplum it just looks more finished somehow and I agree with the others that the lace on the skirt does not do justice to the beautiful work on the bodice.
    I have a feeling that, despite all the problems it’s caused you, that this outfit may end up being one of your all time favorites and I can’t wait to see how you finish it.

    Lorna in the UK

    1. Thank you so much Lorna,
      You were first to comment about the lace looking a little long, a little off, and that’s what got me studying it.
      I like your saying…and yes, I do try to make quality outfits…I hope it always shows.
      Blessings, Jeanne

  14. Big Congratulations, Susette, on winning the draw!! I can’t wait to see Molly in her red ruffles! Maybe you could sew a bodice to attach them to and have a re-creation of your much loved dress, or see what Jeanne might charge to add a bodice for you? Should be easy if the fabric isn’t in squares. ; )

    Your work is beautiful, Jeanne! You fixed this like the professional you are! It looks wonderful now and yes, I’ll make it unanimous to put the placket all the way down the front. I definitely learned that you have to treat squares much like a plaid!!

    I thought the plain skirt needed something, too. I also think just the flat layer of lace near disappears. I was hoping you might make the bottom of the skirt have an attached ruffle of the same fabric, just to break that straight line to something that blends better with the fluidity of the bodice. However, you’d need to deal with lining the squares up to match the rest of the skirt. It wouldn’t be as difficult as it was on the bodice, though. I think adding a strip of the bow gingham would be too jarring. Ruffling the lace nice and tight might well work, though. I know you’ll choose the perfect finish and can’t wait to see how the dress becomes whole. : ) This may well be my favorite piece of the year!! Excellent job!!! Love and Big hugs, Ali

    1. Hi Ali,
      I think with my peplum issues, I may have scared everyone away from”squares” fabrics forever!
      Well good, I didnt have a single comment wanting to keep the dress as it was
      This makes it so much easier to know what to do.
      For now I’m just going to take the lace off and fix the peplum lace and see if that’s enough. When I finish the rest of the set, I hope it will be acceptable.
      I’m thrilled that you like it so much! That makes my day!!
      Thank you Ali,
      Blessings, Jeanne

Comments are closed.