Okay, the day has finally arrived for our Sew-Along. We’ll do a sew-along sometime for a doll dress, but this one is going to be for a little girl. I chose the Simplicity pattern # 8102. I’m showing how to make version A… just the basic dress! I’m hoping it looks anything BUT basic when I’m finished!
If you do any sewing at all, this will be a piece of cake for you, but I’m hoping this pattern will be more of an inspirational post rather than a how to session. You can follow along with the pattern directions and most likely figure it out, but just in case you are a “visual learner” (like me), I hope the pictures will help. My only regret is that I chose a “red” print… Probably the hardest color to photograph. The pictures under my sewing machine are yellow. Sorry about that.
Whenever I make children’s clothing. I like to wash and dry my fabric to get rid of any shrinkage AND that center fold crease. I usually just put it on the mini cycle in my washer, but don’t use any detergent.
If you haven’t done so already, now is a good time to cut out your pattern. This pattern has 6 different sizes included…3-8. Make sure you cut on the correct lines for the size you are using. You only need 4 pieces…the front, back, front facing and back facing.
Somehow I lost the first 2 pictures I took of laying out the dress. I don’t have any more of that fabric, but I cut out a little doll size dress pattern to show you what I’m talking bout.
If you are using the size 6 or 8, you will most likely have to use the full width of the fabric as the tail of the dress is wider than the smaller sizes. Match up the selvages and lay your pattern on the fabric foldline like this…
If you are making a smaller size, you can save fabric by sliding the top piece over just a bit…leaving just enough room for the widest part of the dresses hem area.
IF you lay your fabric on your cutting table with both selvages matching, and use one of the smaller size patterns it’s like cutting a big area out of the center of the fabric. You waste a lot more fabric that way. It’s better to slide the top piece over.
When you take your pins out, you can tell the front from the back because the front has a slightly lower neckline.
I am showing my dress with facings in a coordinating print. You can make yours the same as the dress fabric if you like. I also cut my facings a little longer on the bottom edge. It makes the bodice area of the dress have a little more body…AND if you have any little “budding” girls, it gives a little bit more “modesty” to the dress. :o)
I used a very lightweight fusible interfacing on the front and back facings. Use your fabric pieces (instead of the pattern pieces) if you have extended the front and back facings down a little bit. (Make sure you have the fusible side down when you press it on…there’s nothing worse than interfacing sticking to your iron. That’s why I ONLY buy chrome plated irons.)
Serge or use pinking shears along the bottom edge of the facings.
Then sew the facings together at the side seams using a 5/8″ seam and press them open.
Now Charlotte, (our 4H judge) don’t be too hard on me for not matching up my facings exactly. I would never have done that when sewing my 4H dresses! Just wanted you to know!
You can sew the side seams of the dress and THEN serge the edges…OR you can serge the edges and then sew the side seams. IF you serge the edges first, make sure you don’t cut any fabric off…you change the size of your pieces. Just catch the edge and that’s all.
Press the side seams open…
Next pin the facing to the dress with right sides together. Be liberal with your pins making sure to line up your side seams and work any fullness in as you go. (Make sure you get the front facing matched up with the front of the dress. Remember it’s a bit lower.) If for some reason you have too much fullness in the facing, you can adjust it by unstitching the side seam on the facing and make it a bit smaller. You don’t want any puckers in your facing or in the dress.
Starting at the under arm seam on one of the sides begin sewing a 5/8″ seam all the way around the straps and across the front and the back.
Then you’ll want to clip the seams, making SURE NOT to cut past the seam you have just sewn.
Trim the seam to about 1/4″ all the way around… (Do it over a trash can because you’ll make a mess.) You can trim the seam first but it’s easier to clip your seams when you have a little bit more fabric there.
Okay, we’re going to stop there and finish up tomorrow… If you have any questions so far, just let me know… I’m hoping you are loving the one you are making… or if you’re just watching, I hope you are enjoying it too!
We’re on the home stretch now… the hard part is done… really there weren’t any parts, were there? :o)
Thanks everyone,
See you tomorrow,
Blessings, Jeanne
The dress is coming along nicely, Jeanne! I think it’ll be really cute when it’s done.
I admit, it’s sometimes hard to make those facing side seams come out exactly equal. Before I had a serger, I used to hand-clean-finish the facing edges, often (particularly if they were fairly straight) but turning up 1/4″ and stitching (done after the side seams are sewn). That way, you have a smooth edge all the way around!
One thing I would add is that, when you are going around that really tight curve at the top of the straps, shorten your stitch length some, and be sure to stop with the needle down every 2-4 stitches, raise the presser foot, and adjust the fabric underneath it before you continue sewing. The curve will be much smoother, and more accurately stitched. It’s one of those things that we often do automatically, and forget to mention to less experienced sewers.
I finished that first pair of short overalls this afternoon–yay! (Fair kept me away from my machine the last couple of weeks.) Only 6 more pair to go (I have 7 LDs). Not sure if I’ll do another pair immediately, or work on a UFO first. I’m sure I could find a few of those! LOL
Hi Charlotte,
I too, remember turning under the facings and stitching them…after the facing was sewn on too…it did make a nice clean edge.
I do that too…shorten my stitches on the curves…and trim the points off the tops of the straps and angle the clipping to more of a point…it makes a sharper point.
Oh, you have some UFO’s too? (Un-Finished Outfit) I’m still sorting out things…
Thanks Charlotte,
Blessings, Jeanne
I really like how this is coming together. Everything is very clear and easy to understand. I did make it to Joann’s to find the pattern, but of course, they did not have. So, if I decide I want it, I will have to order directly from Joann’s or buy on Ebay. I really hate how the pattern companies now combine all sizes into one so you end up with only one size and not the rest when you cut it out. I can remember when all sizes were included separately. Guess that dates me. I also like how you cut the facing longer which makes it less likely to ride up. The only way I’ve ever finished facings is like Charlotte, narrow hem sewed down. Old school here and no serger. The two different fabrics are going to be very nice together. Are you going to make that cute beach bag in a pup theme? Would be so cute.
I’m actually working on a doll outfit with a close pattern. Always takes me a lot longer than it should. But, that is because I regularly change the pattern instead of sewing as is. Can’t just leave well enough alone. Looking forward to your next post. Hope you don’t have to labor too much on Labor Day. 🙂
Hi Joy,
It’s too bad about your patterns always being missing or out of stock…that would be a real bummer for me!!
I remember when the patterns came sized separately too! The good thing is, the price of patterns with a coupon or a super sale makes it easier to buy 3 of the pattern for much less than what patterns used to be. Stock up when they are .99 cents.
I’ll see how much Jaycee likes the dress and consider doing a bulldog bag! :o)
I AM laboring on Labor Day…back in my sewing room again!
Hope you’ve gotten that doll pattern mastered by now!
Thanks Joy,
Blessings, Jeanne
The dress is going to be adorable and the fabric is so cute. I’m definitely a visual/hands-on learner. I prefer picture instructions to written. Adams-Harris only uses written and I have to think in pictures. Good use of my imaginative skills. I noticed many of the sewers on the blog often say that they can’t make a pattern as is. When I was young and sewing and we didn’t have much money, I didn’t have much in the way of patterns to choose from (usually handed down from other sewers in the family and often out of style per a high school student – me) so I was always using the bodice of one, the sleeves of another, adding a collar or cuffs from another just to change things up a bit. Isn’t that the fun part of sewing? You can do as you wish. I don’t do that as much with my dolly patterns, other than adding maybe jackets or blouses from other patterns to change up an ensemble, because I’m terrible at altering patterns and I find with the dolly patterns they are pretty finite in tolerance. I have no skills in that area at all. (Jeanne, an idea for another sew along.) The original multi-size idea was so you could alter the pattern if you were bigger on the bottom than the top or vice versa, etc.. Fortunately for years I was a perfect 10 pattern and didn’t have to alter anything. Today I just avoid sewing for myself. My dolly children are exuberant over that fact. More clothes for them.
Son and family are on the way to spend Labor Day. We’ll be taking the grandkids to the pool and then having a sumptuous repast of ribs (David’s specialty), Strawberry Salad per Jeanne, fruit salad (a family tradition made by my dil), a macaroni and cheese casserole the recipe of which I picked up at the Chorale dinner the other night, and twice-baked cupcakes. What are twice-baked cupcakes you ask. Well, they’re ones that were bought Saturday evening and left in the car accidentally. They survived the hot garage (oven) overnight and sitting in the sun during church and lunch on Sunday. My son gave me a shirt to fix for him and when I went to put it in the back seat, there they were, frosting slightly melted but not too much the worse for wear. They’ve been in the refrigerator ever since and actually recovered pretty well.
As for multi-size patterns, I strongly dislike them and I think most of what I have are that. I know all my children’s patterns are, some 12 mo. to 12 years. I tried a few years ago tracing each size and making separate patterns for the kids clothes, but things got too bulky if you used the same pattern over and over, so what I started doing was just folding the pattern and where there were curves like armholes, collars, etc., I clip the pattern and fold it over. If you clip enough the curve will be near perfect. It works fine and doesn’t take any longer than tracing and cutting a pattern. When I go to the larger size, I just refold the pattern.
Looking forward to the next edition of the sew along.
Hi Barbara,
I have always worked the way you do…a sleeve from this pattern, a collar from another, etc…patterns are too similar most of the time not to be able to do this…it just takes a little practice!
I hope your “feast” goes well…it sounds wonderful!!! Your :twice baked” cupcakes sound like they will survive…kids will eat anything…adults too!
I used to do the exact same thing you did with the patterns…and it worked!
Thanks Barbara,
Blessings, Jeanne
Dear Team Jeanne, go sewers go!
I will be one of the cheerleaders as I am a non-sewer, non-crafter. I can’t wait to see everyone’s projects.
Hi Dorothy,
We can all use a few more cheerleaders!! I think I see you on the sidelines waving some pom poms!!
Blessings, Jeanne
Makes me wanna sew again!
Hi Joy,
It’s been a really long time since I made something “people/kid” sized. It’s been fun!
Thanks Joy,
Blessings, Jeanne